Tuesday, 7 May 2013

Continuing the pattern cutting...

So I carried on with patterning for my final garment, I managed to finish it all last week, even my toile! So I'll just give you a brief description of what I did.

When I last blogged I had finished patterning for my skirt, well manufacturing the skirt was easy so I won't go through it step by step, but I'll show you a picture at the end of it.
I then went on to patterning for the front and back bodice, I simply traced around a size 12 front and back dress block and adapted it to the shape I wanted, including the diagonal point in the middle of the bodice.

Manufacturing the front body was difficult as it was being made from plastic which was hard to get under the sewing machine in some areas. However, sewing the back bodice was simple as this was being made from black fabric with a simple zip down the centre back and attached to the plastic at the sides.

On to the shoulders... I started off patterning for the shoulders by basically cutting out a cone shape in paper and working on the stand trying to get the curved shape I wanted. I had already sampled working with wire for the shoulders before starting the toile shoulder. I had decided to sandwich the wire between 2 pieces of fabric and a piece of wadding for comfort. This worked best as it would be comfortable for the model but also easy to mould into the shape I wanted. However, the back of the shoulder stuck out too far from the back bodice and didn't create the shape I wanted. To problem solve this I went back to my pattern and adapted it by making the top fabric 0.5cm longer on one side and the bottom fabric shorter by 0.5 cm. This meant I could tack the back of the shoulder down onto the back bodice to help hold its shape. I finally attached a bolt into the back of the shoulder piece to connect it to the other shoulder.























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