and the mannufactering begins...

- Its been so long.... I nearly forgot how to pattern.

To create my chosen design I had to pull out the most hardest/challenging Giles Deacon pattern from last year. I had forgotten how difficult it was, however its a challenge worth doing. 

Patterning

-One
To create the 4 panel sleeve I used the whole giles deacon sleeve pattern as it was very similar to my designs 

-Two 

I adapted the pattern slightly by widening it by 1cm on each sleeve pattern  

-Three

To create the front and back of my designs I also used the giles deacon pattern, however i adapted them slightly by joining up the missing gaps so they become more of a front and back bodice pattern

 Manufactering 

-One

after cutting out the pattern pieces in calico, I stitched the two elbow pieces together following the giles deacon instructions

-Two
I then stitched the lower arm sleeve to the elbow patch

-Three 

I then stitched the upper arm sleeve to the other side of the elbow patch creating a full sleeve 

Bodice

-One

Firstly I inserted the front and back darts. 

-Two

I then stitched down the side seams and places the toile on the mannequin 

 It turned out that because of the way the back of the neck on the giles deacon pattern went up it made the fit on the mannequin very difficult.

-Three
To problem solve this I unpicked the top section where it was pulling on the mannequin, i then drew on the neckline I wanted around the front and the back. (I then went and changed it on my pattern to)

-Four 

as the bodice was to tight on the mannequin and the side seams werent matching up, also it wouldnt fit any person, i then had to add 2cm to the back bodice. I choose to add to the back instead of the front because the breast dart fitted perfect and I didnt want to change that. 

 
-five
I then stitched in the seam with the pleat at the top.

I have to make sure the pleat matches up with the shoulder seam.

Notes

I then added some notes onto my toile ready to discuss with my tutor tomorrow, for example where I want my yoke seam to be (1.5cm underneath the armhole,) and would the darts work with my chosen material tape. These notes are all ready for my next day of sampling and manufacturing