Dazed and Confused

-last year I completed and created a shirt dress as part of my pattern cutting brief, I also carried out a photo shoot in the style of 'Dazed and Confused' magazine. And this week I've finally printed out these shoots for my portfolio and here is the final magazine shoot...

Final Sustainable Garment

-The finished product
Jtape

-CAD Spec Drawing of my Sustainable Jacket

the final steps..

-yesterday I carried on with the manufacture of my tape jacket

-eighteen 

so after finishing half the bodice on Tuesday I then went back to it on Wednesday and attached the second half. I also topstiched along the back seam to help hold down the seam at the back 

-Nineteen

after completing the main bodice I decided to go back to attaching the upper sleeve to the bottom half of the sleeve on both sleeves (the most difficult area) 

I managed to attach the sleeve correctly on one of the sleeves but however it was for some strange reason more difficult on the second sleeve. 

-twenty 

so when it came to the second sleeve I decided to attach it in a different way by stitching the most difficult bit first and back tacking then going back and pinning the rest, by stitching the difficult bit first made it more stronger when pinning the rest as it didnt mean the pin would move.

-Twenty one 

the final few steps of the process was to attach the sleeves to the main bodice.

as the orignal giles deacon pattern that i followed required alot of gathering arouund the arm hole, however as the material i was using was not going to allow this i then had to problem solve.

Therefore i matched the two seams up on the main bodice and sleeve at the bottom of the arm hole and started to pin upwards towards the top. As there showed to be alot of excess material that was suppose to be gathered at the top i then decided to use this to create a pleat at the top, this turned out to be the best way to fit the sleeves into the armholes 

-twenty two 

I then repeated the same technique for the second seam 

-Twenty three 

my sustainable jacket was almost finished all that was left to do was tidy up some areas, as working with tape seem to be proven hard as alot of areas have been damaged and just need to be tied up.    

-This is tomorrows task.

Todays work

-today's tasks
as attaching all the sleeves together figured out to be very difficult the other day, I decided to leave them for today and get all the other pieces ready for my tomorrows day of sewing.

-fourteen
I carried on creating the tape material for all the patterns so they were ready and out of the way. Making extra long piece so they could be folded in half for the patterns that had to be cut on the fold

-fifteen 

Sewing in all the darts on the front and back bodice.

-sixteen 

I then stitched the bottom half of the back bodice to the top half making sure notches were matched up 

-seventeen 

I then stitched one half of the jackets front peices together and places it on the mannequin to see where it sat.  However i found out it would be easier to complete the whole bodice jacket to then see if it sat properly 

  

-tomorrows task 

complete bodice 

finish sleeves and attach to main bodice jacket 

Continuing

The next day of patterning..

-six
I went back to my notes I had written on my toile and discussed them with my tutor. We decided that I was going to change the how I was going to manufacture my jacket as originally I was going to make an under coat and the a top section to sit over the shoulders, however I decided I didn't want to it to look like I had an over piece over my jacket, therefore I changed my pattern by slicing along where I wanted my seam to be on the front and back.

-Seven
we also decided to make the front edges of the jacket straight and not have a stepped edge, to do this I worked with my toile and the mannequin and adjusted where I wanted the front of my jacket to come to on the mannequin bring it 2cm in at the top and 1.5cm in at the bottom

-eight
Me and my tutor also notice that I hadn't attached the elbow patch correctly to the sleeve as the seam on the elbow had to be towards the back not the side, therefore I had to remember to attach it correctly when it came to manufacturing the real deal.

-nine 

the making of the material 

The next step was to make the tape material, to create it I stuck two peices of tape together on the sticky sides and repeated this untill I had to right size for the pattern, I then sewed all the peices together with a straight stitch and the repeated this method so I cut x2 

-ten

I started with cutting the elbow pieces out and sewing them together and topstitching along the seam as I couldn't press the seam open on the back therefore I had to find away to lesson the bulk and topstitching it was the best option

 Cutting triangles into the seams made it more flexible 

-eleven

I also repeated the same technique for the lower sleeve

-twelve

The next step was to attach the lower sleeve to the elbow patches making sure all notches are matched up and the elbow seam is more towards the back and putting right sides together.

I then turned the sleeves the right way which created to bottom half of two sleeves 

-Thirteen 

For the upper sleeves i repeated the same technique for creating the tape material 

-Tuesdays's tasks 

Attach upper sleeve to the bottom half of sleeve 

Cut out remaining pattern pieces 

continue manufactering... 

and the mannufactering begins...

- Its been so long.... I nearly forgot how to pattern.

To create my chosen design I had to pull out the most hardest/challenging Giles Deacon pattern from last year. I had forgotten how difficult it was, however its a challenge worth doing. 

Patterning

-One
To create the 4 panel sleeve I used the whole giles deacon sleeve pattern as it was very similar to my designs 

-Two 

I adapted the pattern slightly by widening it by 1cm on each sleeve pattern  

-Three

To create the front and back of my designs I also used the giles deacon pattern, however i adapted them slightly by joining up the missing gaps so they become more of a front and back bodice pattern

 Manufactering 

-One

after cutting out the pattern pieces in calico, I stitched the two elbow pieces together following the giles deacon instructions

-Two
I then stitched the lower arm sleeve to the elbow patch

-Three 

I then stitched the upper arm sleeve to the other side of the elbow patch creating a full sleeve 

Bodice

-One

Firstly I inserted the front and back darts. 

-Two

I then stitched down the side seams and places the toile on the mannequin 

 It turned out that because of the way the back of the neck on the giles deacon pattern went up it made the fit on the mannequin very difficult.

-Three
To problem solve this I unpicked the top section where it was pulling on the mannequin, i then drew on the neckline I wanted around the front and the back. (I then went and changed it on my pattern to)

-Four 

as the bodice was to tight on the mannequin and the side seams werent matching up, also it wouldnt fit any person, i then had to add 2cm to the back bodice. I choose to add to the back instead of the front because the breast dart fitted perfect and I didnt want to change that. 

 
-five
I then stitched in the seam with the pleat at the top.

I have to make sure the pleat matches up with the shoulder seam.

Notes

I then added some notes onto my toile ready to discuss with my tutor tomorrow, for example where I want my yoke seam to be (1.5cm underneath the armhole,) and would the darts work with my chosen material tape. These notes are all ready for my next day of sampling and manufacturing