and the mannufactering begins...

- Its been so long.... I nearly forgot how to pattern.

To create my chosen design I had to pull out the most hardest/challenging Giles Deacon pattern from last year. I had forgotten how difficult it was, however its a challenge worth doing. 

Patterning

-One
To create the 4 panel sleeve I used the whole giles deacon sleeve pattern as it was very similar to my designs 

-Two 

I adapted the pattern slightly by widening it by 1cm on each sleeve pattern  

-Three

To create the front and back of my designs I also used the giles deacon pattern, however i adapted them slightly by joining up the missing gaps so they become more of a front and back bodice pattern

 Manufactering 

-One

after cutting out the pattern pieces in calico, I stitched the two elbow pieces together following the giles deacon instructions

-Two
I then stitched the lower arm sleeve to the elbow patch

-Three 

I then stitched the upper arm sleeve to the other side of the elbow patch creating a full sleeve 

Bodice

-One

Firstly I inserted the front and back darts. 

-Two

I then stitched down the side seams and places the toile on the mannequin 

 It turned out that because of the way the back of the neck on the giles deacon pattern went up it made the fit on the mannequin very difficult.

-Three
To problem solve this I unpicked the top section where it was pulling on the mannequin, i then drew on the neckline I wanted around the front and the back. (I then went and changed it on my pattern to)

-Four 

as the bodice was to tight on the mannequin and the side seams werent matching up, also it wouldnt fit any person, i then had to add 2cm to the back bodice. I choose to add to the back instead of the front because the breast dart fitted perfect and I didnt want to change that. 

 
-five
I then stitched in the seam with the pleat at the top.

I have to make sure the pleat matches up with the shoulder seam.

Notes

I then added some notes onto my toile ready to discuss with my tutor tomorrow, for example where I want my yoke seam to be (1.5cm underneath the armhole,) and would the darts work with my chosen material tape. These notes are all ready for my next day of sampling and manufacturing 

Designs

- Before patterning my final garment I had to actually design some ideas and choose a final design to start manufacturing. I took inspiration from the inspiration thread I posted on the previous post (the astronauts and working on the mannequin)

- Final Design 

Tape...

As you know our current brief is to design and create a sustainable garment using anything from recycled objects to ends of rolls. Well I am very fortunate to have a close connection with somebody who owns a tape manufacturing company, therefore I thought it would be pretty cool to ask them if they ever had end of roll/unwanted tape. It turned out that they have loads of unwanted rolls of tape that never gets used. The tape that is manufactured their is used for aircraft's and cars making the tape extremely strong.

 -Inspiration

 To start with I wasn't to sure how I was going to work with the tape but then I tested out sticking two pieces together with the non sticky sides on the outside, this method gave the tape a leathery texture which turned out to work well when sewn together.

Cowl Neckline

The Cowl Neckline was another method of modelling on the stand that we looked at. This method wasn't as complicated as the bodice block pattern, as this method only required us to fold the fabric on the bias and drape around the neck and hold by pins.

- Cowl Neckline.
For my cowl neckline, I folded my fabric on the bias and raped it around the neck of the mannequin and pinned at the back. I decided to bring the excess fabric from the back to over the shoulder which created a lovely fall on the fabric. I then pinned the other side and cut away any excess fabric to 2cm.

- Conclusion

After carrying out the modelling on the stand task, I found it gave me a better understand of the many ways you can pattern and how different they are. However I have found that I prefer the flat pattern technique as it is more of an organised process (I like to be organised a lot!) for example I like to pattern a garment then toile it and if there's any problems to solve them by going back to my flat pattern and change it that way. I also feel I have move control over the manufacturing this way, I now realise flat patterning is my way of thinking but I am glad I have experimented with modelling on the stand because if there's any need for me to pattern on the stand then I know the technique and how to do it! ( It's very helpful to know more than one techquie!)

tasks - modelling on the stand

One of the tasks in the new brief was to learn and understand the different methods of patterning/designing garments. Creating a bodice block on the stand is one of the methods of patterning/designing we looked at along with a cowl neckline which is also created on a mannequin.

-Bodice Block

Instructions on how to create a bodice block pattern

         1. Pinning the warp grain of the rectangle piece of fabric to the centre front line of the mannequin.

2. From the centre of the neck smooth the fabric away towards the shoulder pinning as you go along. Snip into the neckline so the fabric can lie smoothly.

 3. Push excess fabric up from above the bustline and towards the shoulder darts, pushing out from the neckline aswell. Pin excess fabric to create the shoulder dart.

4. Smooth fabric out and down from the shoulder and pin around the arm whole cutting away any excess fabric to 1 cm.

5. Pin fabric down the side seam, pushing the excess fabric towards the wait dart. Pin waist dart in, started from below the bustline. Cut away excess side seam fabric to 2cm.

6. Turn under seam allowance around the neck line and pin to hold in place. 

7. Cut away and excess fabric at the bottom and remove any unnecessary pins e.g around the arm hole.  

               -Finished bodice block pattern

new brief

Last Tuesday we received our new brief which basically leads on from the previous Sustainability brief. However the aim of our new brief is to design and create a sustainable garment which can either be made from recycled materials, off cut material or any objects you throw away daily.



-Maison Martin Margiela

 

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