Cowl Neckline

The Cowl Neckline was another method of modelling on the stand that we looked at. This method wasn't as complicated as the bodice block pattern, as this method only required us to fold the fabric on the bias and drape around the neck and hold by pins.

- Cowl Neckline.
For my cowl neckline, I folded my fabric on the bias and raped it around the neck of the mannequin and pinned at the back. I decided to bring the excess fabric from the back to over the shoulder which created a lovely fall on the fabric. I then pinned the other side and cut away any excess fabric to 2cm.

- Conclusion

After carrying out the modelling on the stand task, I found it gave me a better understand of the many ways you can pattern and how different they are. However I have found that I prefer the flat pattern technique as it is more of an organised process (I like to be organised a lot!) for example I like to pattern a garment then toile it and if there's any problems to solve them by going back to my flat pattern and change it that way. I also feel I have move control over the manufacturing this way, I now realise flat patterning is my way of thinking but I am glad I have experimented with modelling on the stand because if there's any need for me to pattern on the stand then I know the technique and how to do it! ( It's very helpful to know more than one techquie!)

tasks - modelling on the stand

One of the tasks in the new brief was to learn and understand the different methods of patterning/designing garments. Creating a bodice block on the stand is one of the methods of patterning/designing we looked at along with a cowl neckline which is also created on a mannequin.

-Bodice Block

Instructions on how to create a bodice block pattern

         1. Pinning the warp grain of the rectangle piece of fabric to the centre front line of the mannequin.

2. From the centre of the neck smooth the fabric away towards the shoulder pinning as you go along. Snip into the neckline so the fabric can lie smoothly.

 3. Push excess fabric up from above the bustline and towards the shoulder darts, pushing out from the neckline aswell. Pin excess fabric to create the shoulder dart.

4. Smooth fabric out and down from the shoulder and pin around the arm whole cutting away any excess fabric to 1 cm.

5. Pin fabric down the side seam, pushing the excess fabric towards the wait dart. Pin waist dart in, started from below the bustline. Cut away excess side seam fabric to 2cm.

6. Turn under seam allowance around the neck line and pin to hold in place. 

7. Cut away and excess fabric at the bottom and remove any unnecessary pins e.g around the arm hole.  

               -Finished bodice block pattern

new brief

Last Tuesday we received our new brief which basically leads on from the previous Sustainability brief. However the aim of our new brief is to design and create a sustainable garment which can either be made from recycled materials, off cut material or any objects you throw away daily.



-Maison Martin Margiela

 

- Love it

Edun

I recently research into the Fashion Brand 'Edun' founded by Ali Hewsson and her husband Bono

-Edun is a modern fashion brand that mainly aims at being fair-trade to its workers in Africa, as it works along side 8 factories in Africa to help produce the majority of their collections. Being Fair- trade can be classes as an area of being sustainable, as it is being fair to its employees and not employing workers underage that are being paid at a poorly rate.

design development

-For our next task on our current sustainable brief, we had to act like we worked for the chosen brand we were given (mine was 'Noir.') The task was to design a capsule collections in the style of 'Noir' but bring in our own personal style and inspiration from our summer holiday work. The inspiration I had taken from my holiday homework was city skylines, so I designed garments with stepped edges and clean lines and also took in 'Noir' signature styles of sexual undertones, clean lines and tailoring.

- To start off I designed around about 40 designs and developed them further to get a range of outfits to choose from for the final capsule collection.

- After I had chosen the final outfits for the collections, I started to test out different medias to see which would work best for the fabric I was trying to convey. I used a variety of medias such as fine liners, pastels, ink and crayons.

- Yesterday I finally finished my capsule collection boards and hopefully you can see I used 'Noir' signature looks and colours.


Board One

Board 2 

Noir

As part of our current Sustainable brief we were paired off and given a Sustainable Brand to research into and finally give a presentation on. Jolie (my partner) and I went off and started to research into the Sustainable (or what we thought was) fashion brand 'Noir.' After researching and researching into 'Noir' we finally found out that 'Noir' wasn't that Sustainable after all, they were just a brand that used 100% cotton but mixed it with Leather and Minx (Not very sustainable after all.) Infact the founder and creator of the 'Noir' fashion brand Peter Ingwersen stated in an interview that he didn't want to be branded as that 'ethical clothing label' and he wanted to be known their 'dark undertones and hard-edged tailoring.'





NOIR A/W 2012